India sounds.
 
All these sounds were recorded during two weeks in October 2000. The recordings were made using a minidisc recorder and a small stereo microphone. The recordings are presented below in chronological order.



Calcutta botanical garden#1.mp3
1'17

Calcutta botanical garden#2.mp3
1'04

One of the reasons we went to Calcutta was to see the giant banyan tree. More than a hundred meters in diameter, and very old. The tree grew from one trunk and when it's long branches reached the ground they developed roots. Usually when this happens the branches get chewed upon by animals, disconnecting them from the original trunk. In this botanical garden a fence protects the banyan tree. It has been able to remain connected to all its trunks, creating a huge wooden network. However, the original trunk has rotted and withered away a long time ago.

This is recorded on our way trough the garden. (Not even close to the banyan tree)

Location: Calcutta
Time: Day



Calcutta evening.mp3
5'39

This is from a long recording made from our Calcutta hotel bathroom window. The music at the end of the track is not from the outside but me forgetting I'm recording and turning on the television. Fate plays another trick though and the minidisc runs out of time.

Location: Calcutta
Time: Evening



Public transport announcement.mp3
4'33

We are walking along M.G Road (Mahatma Gandhi Road) 7 pm. Rush hour. M.G Road is the main street in Bangalore. While we are walking along the street, we pass by a buss stop. From a high pole, a loudspeaker crackles out some message to the people waiting there.

In contrast to Calcutta, the traffic in Bangalore consists mostly of two- and three-wheeled vehicles. The sight of a whole family on a motorcycle is not unusual. Soundwise I tend to like the grumbling sound of small engines better, but it can be very difficult to cross the streets. The streets are usually very wide and don't have any lanes, so you can cram a lot of motorcycles in there. Nobody stops at the pedestrian crossings, or even the traffic lights. You have to muster your courage, run like hell, and try to zigzag through the speeding flow of motorcycles. Not a city to greet the dusk of old age in, perhaps?

Location: Bangalore
Time: Evening



White house.mp3
1'05

As we had been rather lazy sightseeing we thought that a buss tour would be perfect to remedy our dented do-gooder tourist consciousness. Try not to fall victim of your do-gooder consciousness. Buss touristing is hell. You find yourself an unwilling part of a tourist herd, running in and out of temples and palaces. And even if you had the time, it would be difficult experiencing the beauty of the temples while trying to fend off the horde of stubborn peddlers gathering around the tourist sites.

This is a recording from within the tourist bus. Our tourist guide through a bad speaker system. At least I got something out of the trip...

Location: Mysore
Time: Day



Village.mp3
1'37

On our way to the jungle in a taxi, the driver stops in a village to ask for directions. This is recorded from the car while he is gone.

I wish I could tell you what the percussive sounds come from, but I couldn't locate the source. A beautiful, mystery sound.

Location: Karnataka countryside
Time: Day



Morning in the Jungle Camp.mp3
0'45

Recorded in a wild life sanctuary, early in the morning after a cup of insanely sweet coffee with milk. We are getting ready for our second safari.

It is very difficult to get a good cup of strong black coffee in India. They seem to favor Nescafe.

Location: B R Hills wild life sanctuary
Time: Morning



Rural railway crossing.mp3
1'39

On our way home from the jungle we stop the car at a train crossing. I run out of the car and place my recording equipment, and myself, on the grass beside the road. While I am fumbling to get my minidisc ready, music flows from an open door of the first car in the queue. Children start to gather around me as I sit on the grass, this is the footsteps heard in the recording. They stand amazingly quiet and are probably wondering what I am doing looking white, sweaty and concentrated. One can hear the train in the distance while a motorcycle sneaks up behind me. After the train has passed our taxi driver honks his horn for me to get back. While I collect my equipment, I try to explain to the children by pointing at my minidisc saying "recording". Then dashing for the car, closing the door and pressing stop.

When I play back the recording later, I head the children holler "recording, recording" after me. I wonder if they understood or just mimicked me, but I think they understood. Most people understand English in India. It's funny how the language of the oppressors now is the most neutral language. There are at least 28 different languages spoken in India. No one wants their language to perish in favor of another. So when a person from somewhere north wants to talk to person from the south, they'll most likely use English. After USA, India has the largest production of books in English.

Location: Karnataka countryside
Time: Day



Market district#1
8'33

While I am recording in the market district in Bangalore. I am approached by an old man asking me if I speak English. I answer yes, and he begins to talk and I can't understand one word. He is gesturing wildly with a small bidi cigarette and seems nice and friendly. A group of youngsters sitting on a flight of stairs nearby are laughing amused by our attempts at communication. Listening to the recording, I understand what he's saying a little better. But it's too late I guess.

Location: Bangalore
Time: Day



Market district#2.mp3
3'42

A short while after the first recording in the market district.

I'm walking along a narrow street. Small shops on both sides. Many having some sort of stereo to lure potential customers to their shop with popular music.

Location: Bangalore
Time: Day



Diwali crackers.mp3
1'38

Our last night in India and the first day of the Diwali festival. Diwali is a celebration of light's triumph over darkness. It's celebrated for four days mostly by exploding crackers in back alleys. At least that was the part that I experienced. Walking around in an Indian city when it's dark can be a rather taxing experience. The sidewalks are full of bumps, holes, cars, junk and cows. You have to walk in the street were you'd better watch out for cars, motorcycles and other people, while an endless honking leaves you with constantly vibrating eardrums. Sometimes you are up for it and sometimes not. This evening I am more in the mood for a whisky and a Bollywood film on TV in the hotel room. From there I make this recording.

I read in a newspaper in Calcutta that the Sound Pollution Board had banned the use of crackers there. I asked if they had heard of any ban here in Bangalore, but they just replied that there is a plant where crackers are made close to Bangalore. No worries about sound pollution, but there were some concern about children workers exploding in accidents in the factory.

Location: Bangalore
Time: Late evening